The Ultimate Care Guide for White's Tree Frogs
White’s Tree Frogs (also known as Dumpy Frogs for their chubby appearance) are among the most popular amphibians in the pet trade. Native to Australia and New Guinea, these frogs are incredibly captivating. Here's a comprehensive care guide to help you provide the best environment for your White's Tree Frogs.
Habitat Setup
Enclosure Size
For one adult White's Tree Frog, a minimum of a 30-gallon (18” L x 18” W x 24” H) vertical tank is recommended. If housing multiple frogs, increase the size accordingly. A good rule of thumb is to increase the tank size by at least 10 gallons for every frog you add as they will use all of the space you give them. They are arboreal and love to explore, so a tank taller than it is wide is needed to provide ample climbing space. Glass tanks with screen or mesh tops are best and should have adequate ventilation. Our 3 dumpy frogs are in a 120-gallon glass enclosure, providing them with more than enough space to adventure around the tank.
These frogs can have a voracious appetite so they can and will eat another frog if there is too great of a size difference between them. Only house same-sized frogs together; avoid keeping babies with adults. The smallest frog should be at least half the size of the largest frog, if not closer in size if possible.
Substrate
Being native to Australia and southern New Guinea, White’s tree frogs prefer moist, forested environments but have skin that can adjust to drier situations (hence making them a great beginner’s frog). Use a moisture-retaining substrate such as coconut fiber, organic topsoil, or a mix with play sand. Avoid substrates that can cause impaction if ingested like wood chips or sphagnum moss, especially when housing baby frogs. If they think something could be a bug (like a small piece of bark), they will strike!
Temperature
Maintain a temperature gradient of 75-85°F during the day, with a slight drop to 70-75°F at night. Use a reliable thermometer to monitor temperatures. Heat mats are not good as they don’t raise the air temperature enough, spike the humidity, and can cause burns on the frogs. Whichever route you choose to heat the enclosure, always plug your heat source into an adjustable thermostat to prevent heat spikes. A thermostat will shut off an overheating bulb, preventing an emergent and potentially deadly situation.
The best option for heating your Whites tree frog enclosure depends in part on the ambient temperature in your home. We use an incandescent bulb to maintain a temperature gradient during the day with a basking spot of 88 degrees Farenheit, and at night our ambient temperature does not drop below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. We provide plenty of perches at various heights to allow our frogs to self-regulate their body temperatures. If you like to keep your home on the cooler side, you may want to use a ceramic heat projector as this will not emit light. A ceramic heat projector can maintain a safe temperature day and night in this situation, but allowing a slight drop in temperature at night mimics a frog’s natural environment.
Humidity
Keep in mind that these are not tropical frogs, so when it comes to humidity, think forest frogs. Ideal humidity is in the 50-70% range depending on when you last misted their tank. Anything higher than 70% humidity for prolonged periods can cause respiratory, bacterial, and fungal infections, especially if the temperatures are too cool. Aim for a consistent humidity level with a spike once a day. Use a good-quality hygrometer to monitor humidity levels.
Lighting
While not strictly necessary, providing a low-level UVB light for 10-12 hours a day can benefit the frogs' overall health. The Arcadia Shade Dweller D3 7% UVB T5 Bulb is the best choice to provide UVB lighting to your frog. If not using a UVB bulb, Vitamin D3 should be supplemented in the frog’s diet. When provided UVB lighting, frogs will produce as much Vitamin D as their bodies need on their own. Without it, they rely on us to supplement their food - we must be careful with this to prevent overdosing the animal on Vitamin D, or causing Metabolic Bone Disease from lack of supplementation or UVB.
Decor
Diet and Nutrition
Diet
White's Tree Frogs are insectivores. A varied diet of gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches, earthworms, silkworms, and occasionally, superworms or waxworms as treats, is ideal. To gut load your crickets, feed them reptile-safe veggies at least 24 hours before feeding them to your reptiles. To make it easy to do this, we have storage totes from Walmart that we drilled holes in for ventilation. We simply provide food and egg carton hides for the insects, and pull from that source at feeding times. Dubia Roaches is a great feeder option that ships from the central US.
Feeding Schedule
Juvenile frogs should be fed daily, but adults should be fed every 2-3 days. Leaving excess uneaten insects can pose a risk to your frog, as some (like crickets) will bite and cause injury to your frog.
Adjust the quantity and insect size based on the frog's size. The insect should not be longer than the space between your frogs’ eyes are wide.
Supplements
Dust food items with a calcium supplement twice a week and a multivitamin once a week to prevent nutritional deficiencies. If using a UVB bulb in your frog’s enclosure, ensure that your calcium does not contain Vitamin D3.
Water and Hydration
Water Bowl
Misting
Regular misting of the enclosure helps maintain humidity and provides a water source, as White's Tree Frogs can drink water droplets off leaves. Avoid misting too frequently or drenching the enclosure, as this can do more harm than good in risking a fungal or bacterial infection for your frog.
Health & Wellness
Signs of Good Health
Common Health Issues
Watch out for signs of illness such as lethargy, weight loss, swollen joints, cloudy eyes, or skin abnormalities. Metabolic bone disease (due to calcium deficiency) and chytrid fungus are notable concerns.
Veterinary Care
Handling and Interaction
Social Needs
These frogs are generally extremely sociable with their kind but monitor interactions to prevent bullying, especially during feeding times. They can be shy of people when they’re young and are most active at night, so installing a nanny cam is a fun way to observe their natural behaviors.